26th March – 29th March (233km cycled)
The next section of the trip was all about getting to Motueka, and as fast as we could. This, we felt, was our destination and final port of call for activities planned on the South Island. Over the three day section we had big days of distance and elevation to cover.
Westport was a small gridded town with little of inspiration. We probably felt like that because it did not stop raining whilst we were there! We only left the campsite on our rest day to go to the shop to get more food. This included carrot cake, chocolate, fajita wraps and soup! We were carb-ing up. Or just binging on sugar. We ate a full English breakfast for dinner and again the next day for breakfast. Thankfully I could still remember how to cook eggs. We also went to the pharmacy to get vitamin B1 tablets that we had been told would act as a deterrent to sandflies if you ‘overdosed’ on it. It excreted through your pores and would hopefully dissuade bugs from biting. Here’s hoping.
Oh the rain, it didn’t stop falling for a solid 36 hours. 400-500mm fell on the west overnight, and the rivers were swollen. The roads we had just cycled were announced closed due to slips, and the bridge at Franz Josef collapsed. It was a pretty dire outlook for anyone travelling south.
Luckily for us, we were travelling the other way.
On our day of departure we packed up rather slowly. We moved all of our kit under the enclosure to attempt to dry it off. We hung out drinking tea and eating cake, waiting for a break in the weather. Finally at midday I couldn’t take the waiting about any longer and we set off.



As soon as we left Westport the sun came out, the roads began to steam in front of us. It was quite eerie.
Our original target for the day was Inganahua Junction which had a motel park campsite (and not a lot else). We cycled past it and it seemed a little dodgy, so we opted to carry on a few more km to a DOC site in Lyell. We passed through a small village, Berlins, and stopped for a hot drink. Our lunch stop was a very speedy affair. The bugs had been hiding, out of the rain, and the muggy humid weather was perfect conditions for them to reappear in force.
We arrived at Lyell and set up campsite next to the entrance to the Old Ghost Road (an advanced mountain biking track which we couldn’t have done on our bikes). We were the only ones at the site, and quickly got into the tent to avoid suffering more itchy legs!


The next morning was chilly. We packed up quickly and started the day of hills.
Cycling was slower today, alongside the Buller river through the Gorge which was high, fast flowing and a murky brown colour. Each time we crossed a bridge, I did hold my breath but they all held their position. The cliff side waterfalls were abundant today, cascading almost over the road, but thankfully diverted with numerous culverts. We did cycle underneath a rock overhang in a horseshoe corner of the river where the water was almost in a waterfall, that was fun!
On the roadside there was a sign for a swing bridge, so we stopped to see what it was all about. Andy hadn’t topped up the Revolut card in a couple of days and we only had $20 cash on us, so unfortunately it was a choice between crossing the bridge for a tenner each (!!) or a coffee. We chose coffee. We are caffeine fiends.

We stopped again in Murchison for lunch and had our usual tuna mayo cucumber wraps which were as tasty as ever. From Murchison to the Kawatiri Junction the traffic was heavy. We didn’t enjoy this section very much, a lot of logging trucks wizzing past, and local farmers with trailers not giving much space for overtaking. I wanted to get off the section rapidly, so we put our heads down and got it over and done with.
We had plenty of options for the night’s accommodation: a DOC site near the river, a Farm B&B that the Peddlars’ Paradise recommended, and a free site on Hope Saddle. We decided to aim for the B&B. It was almost centrally located between the two sites, and the distance for the day felt sufficient! We cycled past the first site, and stopped for a snack. It felt too soon to set up camp, not enough distance covered, and very buggy. So we went on to the B&B, knowing if all else failed we could get to the saddle. Or even, turn back. The price was cheap for a double room ($70) and after finally getting some signal, we were able to top up the Revolut. We didn’t know if they took card though, and we didn’t have enough cash for a tent pitch.. chancing that they were up to date with technology, we punted on.
We arrived at the farm around 5pm and cycled up a steep gravel road to the entrance, cheered on by sheep and goats in the garden. There was no one home but there were two dogs which were so friendly! We hung around for nearly an hour waiting for the owners to arrive, but we were running out of daylight time. We couldn’t wait for ever, and we still weren’t sure about payment, so we decided to go the additional 4km and climb up 190m to Hope Saddle. Oof – after a day of hills, this was quite an effort.
The views more than made up for it.
Andy set up the tent quickly (potentially illegally as CamperMate told us it was only for self contained vehicles, but there was a grass patch and there was a drop toilet, so we thought must be ok) and I cooked the dinner; the site was at a higher elevation so no flies! Apparently it gets inundated with wasps but they had all gone to bed when we arrived. I could tell by the fruit bushes that were growing that this might have been true earlier in the day! We watched sunset over the mountains whilst eating pasta carbonara and broccoli out of the pan, and walked to the trig point to get a better view of the valley.







What a spot.
By the next day we were definitely a bit on the pongy side. Third day without a shower. Motueka Top 10 was calling! The ride today would be downhill – we had done all the climbing yesterday! The first section was fun, the road winded and went through the valley. Beautiful.
We stopped for a coffee at the Flat Rock Cafe which turned out to be a good place for a wash of the face, a fill up of the water bottles, getting rid of a bag of rubbish, and we had a read about the Taste Trail. Sounded good! The section we were on was being developed – apparently it started here but the signage was somewhat lacking. (Apologies for this wonky photo of the trail)

We cycled to Tapawera, and up Stanley hill (which we preempted with a muesli bar) and alongside many Hop fields. We followed the Taste Trail at Woodstock.
The roads were narrow and windy and undulating, reminding us strongly of Anglesey. We passed another swingbridge. This one was free! So yes – we crossed to halfway, felt the swing (actually pretty swingy!) and walked back. Had lunch after 60km – the downhill was definitely speeding it up!


We cycled through Brooklyn where apparently there was a food stop – not to be seen – so carried on to Motueka. We were glad to arrive. The site seemed quiet (and $$$ due to weekend rates) until a couple of campervans showed up with a loud group of English girls and French lads. Hmm.
We went out for a cheeky Turkish Kebab to celebrate getting here. Finally – some tasty food as promised!!